Real de la Catorce - San Luis Potosí
The History of Real de Catorce
“Real” (pronounced “RAY-AL”) was once one of the richest cities in Mexico and the New World. It was founded in 1779 when silver was discovered. Tons and tons of silver was excavated from the mountains by laborers, many of whom died during the work.
People who have sensitivity to the extra terrestrial have reported making contact with many of these “ghosts” of the laborers of the mines. There are some great stories told of these contacts.
The castles of the land owners have been turned into local hotels.
At the height of the Silver boom there were approximately 15,000 residents of this ghost-town. Today there are only about 1,200.
Real de Catorce – the Center of the Spiritual World
Besides the reported ghosts sightings, Real de Catorce is considered a sacred place by the Huichol Indians, who trek from their homes in Nayarit state on the Pacific Coast to participate in Peyote Rituals. A special variety of hallucinogenic peyote cactus grows in this high desert. This also attracts peyote heads from around the world. On any given day, many of the foreigners you see on the street are stoned.
Real de Catorce is an old mining town and you get here through a 1 ½ mile-long tunnel (details below). If you are sensitive to the spiritual world, you may feel the presence of ghosts in the town after dark. Some were rich caciques who died there, counting their silver. Most were natives who perished in the mines.
Peyote in Real de Catorce
Locals will sell you “peyote products” that is not regulated and you should avoid these things. It could kill you, or at least make you very sick. Be aware that for non-native-people, peyote is illegal, and you could be arrested in possession or transacting the substance.
Huichol Indians trek thousands of miles to Real de Catorce for religious peyote ceremonies. As a point of fact, they used to trek, but now they take busses.
Getting to Real de Catorce
Cars and motorcycles can drive to Real de Catorce via a tunnel. RV’s can park their rig in nearby Matehuala, San Luis Potosi, at the Las Palmas RV park in town, and get here in a tow vehicle or by tour.
It is only about an hour off the main highway route from Laredo to San Miguel de Allende or Yucatan via Puebla.
Just 35 miles from the highway turnoff just north of Matehuala to Real de Catorce, but the last 12 miles are on a cobblestone road (only built in the 1970s as a tourist attraction), which sounds cooler than it is. After about a mile, even the most “authentic” traveler will silently scream for asphalt.
The trip will take about an hour. The last 1 ½ miles are through a tunnel, “El Ogarrio.” There could be a ½-hour wait for the tunnel traffic. The height of the tunnel is approximately 4 meters. It is 2.3 kilometers long, built-in 1901.
Tunel Ogarrio is 7,415 feet (2,260 meters) long. It is cut into the rock mountain, originally to get the silver to market. There is no reinforcement or buttresses anywhere. It is like a long, unreinforced mine shaft. It is a one-way tunnel.
The tunnel is “open” from 8 AM to 5 PM. That does not mean it is barricaded during the “closed” hours. It just means you are on your own. So what happens if you get there before or after the “opening”? It is scary, and you should not do it if you are not good at backing up. You drive with your lights on, and hopefully, so does anyone coming at you from the opposite direction. . 3 or 4 places are wide enough for you to park and the other guy to pass. Use your judgment.
Driving into Real de Catorce
RV’s – Only trucks with campers or class B or C rigs should consider coming here. Even then, ask at Las Palmas RV Park in Matehuala if you will clear the tunnel. The “toll-takers” at the entrance will advise you if your rig is too tall for the tunnel.
Traffic is one-way. A line of cars goes through, and at the other end, everyone waits until the first group finishes. The “traffic control” consisted of a stick with a red flag. This was given to the last guy in line. When he got to the other end, he was supposed to surrender the stick. But then one day, Mexico Mike Nelson, as the last one in the tunnel line he decided to stop to take photos for his blog. Since then, they have use a radio and cell phones to communicate to the other side.
Where to Stay in Real de Catorce
There are 16 hotels in the town. A popular favorite is Quinta Puesta del Sol. They used to be the most expensive, but since the place has been gentrified, they are now middle-range at around $45. The Meson del Refugio is the most expensive at about $90-USD 100 a night. The Hostal Alcazaba is pretty nice and on the high end too. The Casa Sierra Catorce is on the low end at about $40. You could also boondock near the cemetary. If you are into tent camping, it is free.
Things to do in Real de Catorce
Most people come to Real de Catorce for the atmosphere. Some come for the peyote. It is a ghost town with living people. The mountains around are popular horseback riding excursions. Only somewhat less hair-raising is a tour in a Willis (simply called WILL ease) Jeep. You can ride to Cerro Quemado, the Huicholes’ holy mountain. If you are into spiritualism, you might get some good vibes from here. But only go with a guide and don’t go when they are having ceremonies. Then the vibes might be less welcoming.
The Climate in Real de Catorce
This is a high desert and cool, if not cold, all year around. The average temperature is between 16º C and 18º C (61 F. and 65 F.). There is often frost on the ground in the mornings. So don’t spend an evening here unless you are dressed for it. Some hotels have rooms with fireplaces, and others give you extra blankets and their best wishes. What little rain there are (15-20 inches) occurs in the summer.
